In order not to enter into family disputes about which one prepares it better, we have decided to carry out a route through different restaurants in the province to try some of the tastiest in Malaga.
Some bet on tradition, others on innovation, but they all have something in common: you’ll want to repeat again and again.
CANDADO GOLF RESTAURANT • Golf del Candado, 2
If every mother makes it differently, so does each kitchen. Maybe that’s why the so-called Malaga Observatory of the Russian Salad and the Gazpachuelo , which even offers a decalogue with the main canons that must be considered when preparing it.The entity has a Facebook group that exceeds 11,000 people, which shows that this tradition pulls greatly on Malaguita gastronomy.
“We cooks feel responsible for preserving this type of dishes.At home people prepare it less and less and we must keep them alive, “says chef Javier Hernández, of El Restaurante del Candado Golf, who stresses that to cook it well one must ” respect it and give it the value it deserves “.
The delicacy of its ingredients and the complexity of its technique (“it’s not just about mixing a broth and mayonnaise, proportions or temperature are very important to get the right texture and that the sauce does not curdle”) make it not suitable for all menus.
However, for Hernández it is a dish that has always been part of his menu. Its recipe has as main pillars an especially strong fish broth, a rich mayonnaise with a little lemon and, finally, wedges of potato as a side dish.In his case, there is a guest ingredient: rice. “I think it gives it a little more strength and allows it to be a unique dish,” says the chef.
Nearby, in the neighborhood of El Palo , the roots also call for for the gazpachuelo Juanito Juan restaurant (Avenida Salvador Allende, 26) , a classic picnic area much loved in paleño territory. And also one step away, in Rincon de la Victoria, the inn Rincón de Emilio (Calle Ronda, Edif. Ronda nº15 Local 4) is another sure place to taste this dish.
An immersive experience at Fonda Casa Pepa © Nacho Sánchez